Good-Bye to Pure Platinum Jewelry?

Most metals used for jewelry making are mixed with other alloys. For example, sterling silver contains other metals such as copper and zinc. Silver and copper are mixed with gold. This mixing of metals is done for a variety of reasons: it will strengthen soft metals; it will lower the metal’s melting point; it will change the color of the metal; and it will make metals more affordable. This last reason is why the US federal government has determined specific standards for different types of metals. When determining the proper karat (a unit of measurement) of gold, the following is considered the standard:

- 24kt: 100% gold

- 18kt: 75% gold

- 14kt: 58% gold

- 12kt: 50% gold

Sterling silver is .925% silver, and fine silver is .999% pure silver.

But what about platinum? How pure is it?

Those are some really good questions. In the past, most platinum jewelry was about 85% pure platinum, or per the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) to be called platinum, jewelry must be made up of 850 parts per thousand. However, we all know how popular this white metal has become. It’s a favorite now for wedding bands and engagement rings. It’s a status symbol for music industry celebrities. But it is also very, very expensive. Lots of jewelry lovers want it but few can afford it.

Maybe that’s why there is a movement now to change the current FTC platinum standards. According to an article published by National Jeweler (FTC seeks Comment on .585 Platinum), “Several manufacturers have recently brought .585 platinum jewelry to market, raising questions regarding the use of the word "platinum" in selling the jewelry, as well as how the material is presented to consumers.” The article goes on to say that there is a task force that is looking into this, and eventually, this could change the current standards for identifying platinum jewelry.

I know most small jewelry makers and designers can’t often afford to work with platinum, but it is still important to be aware of changes in the world of jewelry making. Also, if lower “karats” of platinum become available, this could mean more opportunities for us to work with this metal.