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Getting Started: Wire Working

Wire work is a great way for the beginner jewelry maker to get started. Even if you move onto other forms of jewelry making such as beads or metalsmithing, the techniques you’ll learn making wire jewelry, from making jump rings to create simple wire hooks, are very valuable. To get started, you’ll first need to invest in some tools and supplies. Though there is no end to the tools you are able to collect when making any type of jewelry, I’ve compiled a list of items that can help the beginner wire worker get started.

1. large bent nosed pliers
2. small bent nosed pliers
3. clamps
4. round nosed pliers
5. polishing cloth
6. ruler
7. wire cutters
8. ring mandrel
9. raw hide hammer
10. hand drill
11. wire twister
12. jeweler's files
13. tool box
14. instruction book
15. 18 gage copper wire

Large Bent Nosed Pliers: These pliers are similar to the basic flat nosed pliers. The nose is not textured inside, so it won’t make marks on the wire. The nose is bent, so when working with the pliers they feel almost like extension of your fingers. They are helpful with pulling, bending, or straightening wires.


Small Bent Nosed Pliers: These are exactly like the larger pliers previously described except they are much smaller and more tapered. They work well for clasping wire while it is being wrapped with around another piece of wire or dowel. They can fit into much tighter spots than the larger pliers and work better for thin wire such as 24 or 26 gage.


Clamps: I got my clamps from a flea market vendor for $1.50 each. They have rubber on them so they don’t put marks on the wire. It’s nice to have two of these and are indispensable when trying to fit wire together before wrapping it. Some times you need three hands when working with wire, so these are the next best thing. You can also use paper binding clips available at most office supply stores.


Round Nosed Pliers: I’ve talked about these before. They are helpful with wire work when trying to make a nice, round loop. Usually the better pliers come from Germany and have a narrowly tapered nose.


Polishing Cloth: A soft cloth is needed to help straighten the wire before working with it. If working with silver wire, this also helps polish it a little. Though polishing cloths can be purchased from most any jewelry supplier, they can also be found at discount stores (such as Wal-Mart) for only a few dollars.

Ruler: To ensure each piece of wire is measured out correctly, a ruler is necessary. So, it’s nice to include one with your wire tools.

Wire Cutters: A good, sharp pair of wire cutters are needed to cut the wire. Since these are used often, it is important to get a well made pair.

Ring Mandrel: A metal ring mandrel is helpful for shaping and sizing wire rings. Plastic mandrels will wear out quickly, so it’s worth the money to invest in a sold metal mandrel.

Raw Hide Hammer: These run about $15 and can be found in most jewelry supply catalogs. They are helpful when using the ring mandrel. When pounding away on a metal ring, you want to be sure not make any marks on the wire. A raw hide hammer prevents this problem.

Hand Drill: This is used when twisting long pieces of wire. Twisting wire adds a nice look, much like diamond cutting, to many wire projects.

Wire Twister: This does what the hand drill does, only it works better of shorter pieces of wire. It can be held and operated using one hand. It runs about $5.


Jeweler's Files: Also called needle files, these are great for filing the ends of wire so they don't poke the wearer of your jewelry.


Tool Box: Fishing tackle boxes, available at most discount stores, will allow you to travel with your tools to classes, shows, or if you just want to wire wrap with a friend.

Book: I got a lot of my first wire information from Tim McCreight's The Complete Metalsmith. However, I must say that I've been very impressed with Making Wire Jewelry by Helen Clegg and Mary Larom.

18 Gage Copper Wire: Available at most hardware stores for only a few dollars, copper wire is a great way to help you learn the ropes of wire work. It's also handy to have some when you're more experienced but are learning a new technique or trying out a project.

Tools designed specifically for the jewelry maker in mind can be purchased at a variety of jewelry making supply sources which can be found on my Tool/Equipment Suppliessection.

Here are some other helpful wire related links you'll find on my site:
Metal/Wire Supply - Lots of links to vendors who sell just all kinds of wire.
Wire - Wire artists, wire information, wire projects, and more wire related links are available here.
About.com Wire Projects/Articles - I've got a few years worth of wire related projects and articles archived here.

All graphics created by Tammy Powley.

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